I was heading to Cervinia to have some fun training between Sierre Zinal and Troffeo Kima. I parked my van where I use to park and camp in Cervinia and in August 15 I climbed Matterhorn from Leone ridge went down Hörnli to Zermatt and back to Cervinia via Teodulo, during the tour many memories came to my mind, from Cervino record, the north face climb or Mezzalama race. I didn’t feel good but was a fun training. That day was also the Feste delle Guide and all mountain guides were dressed with old traditional clothes. I meet some friends and have some drink. François Cazzanelli said to do a tour the day after and we decided to meet at the same bar at 5AM. We decided to do a traverse of the Grandes Murailles, the imposing wall between Cervinia and Valpellina.
At 5:15 we started running from the bar towards bivouac Benedetti in a nice easy ridge. We drink a bit of water and eat some food and start to follow the ridge to the west. Climbing was easy but rock was unstable and required some concentration. We climbed Punta Maria Cristina, Pointe Maquignaz, Punta Carrel, Pointe Blanche, L’Epaule until the Col des Grandes Murailles where is the bivouac Paolo Perelli Cippo. Where we arrived after 3h55
We climbed without stopping much, only at the numerous bivouacs when François was writing in all of the hut’s notebook our journey. It is like 10 bivouacs we passed this day, so it was a bit of time and ink spent.
From there we traversed the Grandes Murailles climbing Punta Margherita, Punta dei Cors, Punta Ester, Punta Lioy, the 2 Jumeaux and Becca di Guin until Col Budden. The climbing was usually on bad tock but some sections were really good and always aesthetic. We could climb all with our running shoes except a short section where we put the crampons, and we did 6 abseil going down some of the summits.
There we continued the Petites Murailles, with endless short climbs and downhills following Punta Budden, Tour de Créton, Mont Blanc du Créton. We went down to the col where is the glacier and took the via ferrata down to the green valleys and to the small lake below bayettes. We run to Cervinia arriving at the bar 10h 57 minutes after leaving. We took some drink and strawberry ice cream and said to meet later for a Pizza.
This was a great day on a very long ridge of 15km ( 23km with 3300m+ total loop).
- Running shoes (sense 7 hardground)
- Crampons overboot
- Backpack (x-alp 23L)
- 60m rope Rad line 5mm
- Harness (blue ice light)
- 2 carabiners
- 2 slings, 3 cams, 3 pitons)
- Down jaket
- 0’5 liter water soflask
- 2 energy bars (226ers salty)
- Sunglasses, gloves, buff