In 1931 Franz and Toni Schmid climb Matterhorn north face. 4 years later Martin Meier and Rudolf Peters climbed for the first time Grandes Jorasses north face and in 1938 a austro-german team with  Anderl Heckmair, Ludwig Vörg, Heinrich Harrer and Fritz Kasparek climb Eiger North Face.

Leo Schlömmer climb all the 3 during a year in 1961 and in 1977  Ivano Ghirardini climb the thiology alone and in one winter. In 1987, the year I was born  Christophe Profit link those faces in 24 hours, going with helicopter from one summit to the feet of the next face.

So in 2015 to climb this faces is not something very dificult or special, but it is great to follow the footsteeps of all this history, and personally, habing been reading so much about all this climbs I feel excited to be there.

When in june I cross for the umpteenth time Simon Elias in Mont Blanc we talk about doing something together. Few days later I got a message “are you up for Jorasses North Face?” I check the calendar and between a shooting and a race I had one free day so I was in. We wanted to do something challenging for both of us so technically for me and in endurance for him so we decided to start walking from Chamonix, climb the Colton-McIntyre and walk down to Courmayeur non stop. Conditions weren’t good at all but at least we were the only team in the hole mountain. 23h after leaving Chamonix we were eating a pizza in Courmayeur.

After the summer I was going for some days off in Nepal and during my visit in Chukkung I meet Ueli Steck, Colin Haley, Helias Millerioux and Ben Guigonnet who were trying Nuptse SE face and we did some climbs and runs together. Ueli asked me if I had ever climbed Eiger north face and when I said no we said to do-it when back in europe. In november I was in Tignes during a training camp and Ueli messaged me saying conditions looked good so I drove to Interlaken and the morning after we started running from Grindelwald as he had climbed the face for 40 times but never starting from the village. We chat a lot and enjoy a climb with excelent conditions but nobody in the mountain. 10h after we were back in the car and I drove back to the training camp.

Since conditions were good in Eiger and in Tignes I thought it could be nice to finish my triology in Matterhorn alone, after all I had learned from Simon and Elias so a cuple of days after I drove to Tash, took the train to Zermatt and start running to Hornli Hutte. It was early afternoon when I started climbing the face and I was alone in the mountain, conditions seemed good but after 1/3 of the climb I realized it was really dry, so I slow down and climb carrefully. This didn’t stop me from getting lost so after 5 hours of climbing I reached the summit and went down to Zermatt and back to the car 14 hours after I started.

Leave a Reply